Travels with Donna
Discovering Punta Cana

Here is one for the puzzle master. What is both big and small, old and new, well-known and unknown, all at the same time? The answer is the Dominican Republic, especially the area of Punta Cana.


Altos de Charon, a complex built in the late 1970's to replicate a 16th Century Village.
Most have heard of Haiti, but few Americans know about this much larger country comprising the eastern two-thirds of the large island Hispaniola. Visitors are welcomed in the open-air Caribbean airport with signs proclaiming the country first in America. That it is -- historians agree that this is where Christopher Columbus first landed in 1492 with the rest of his family soon following. Brother Bartolomeo founded the capitol city Santo Domingo in 1496 and his son became governor 13 years later. Santo Domingo was also the starting point for many of the most famous or infamous names in Spanish-American history: Ponce de Leon, Cortes, Velasquez.
Pillaged, conquered at various times by Spain, France, and Cuba, today's Dominicans are a handsome people who combine Caribbean warmth and friendliness with old world hospitality. Quite a few of the resorts are owned by Spanish hoteliers, but while the architecture may reflect a European influence, the beat in the resort discotheques is distinctly Dominican. I left convinced everyone is born dancing the merengue.
beach scene
Beach at the Marena Beach Resort
Despite its proximity, less than four hours by plane from Cleveland, the Dominican Republic has been slow to catch on with American sun-seekers. Not so the Europeans, who have long known about the almost 1,000 miles of beautiful, clean, white sand beaches. Long, extensive reefs make swimming in the Atlantic feel like a warm pool. So much of the island still undeveloped, it is easy to find a beautiful, secluded spot and imagine being in your own private paradise. There are no large cities near the major beach areas, so most resorts are all-inclusive, sprawling properties with a disco, a casino, restaurants, nightly entertainment, pools, and all manner of water sports including scuba diving. It is easy to go non-stop almost 24 hours a day. I discovered that the hard way, rooming with a 20-something year old. Next time I had better find someone closer to my age.
The size of this island means the sun-shunners as well as the sun-seekers have discoveries to make. Like other Caribbean islands, the Dominican Republic's origins are volcanic. Mountains and tropical forests cover much of the interior. In fact here is the Caribbean's highest point, and its lowest, a pool of salty water in the southwest part. There are 16 national parks, 7 reserves, and alledgedly 5600 species of plants including 300 orchids.
Situated on the southern shore, about a three and a half hour drive from the beautiful beach areas of Punta Cana, is the oldest city in the New World with the oldest street, the oldest cathedral, and the oldest university. Today it is a big modern city, but its core remains a historical center. There is plenty of old Spanish charm in the grand houses that date to the early 1500's.
Obviously the Dominican Republic has a lot of unique features, but that does not explain why this is a very special place. My second night in Punta Cana does, though. With my mediocre Spanish, I made a reservation for a restaurant that turned out to be closed. So when I later left with some friends for a neighboring casino it was without dinner. This is apparently unacceptable, an affront to Dominican hospitality. Our hosts insisted I eat at the restaurant across from the casino, despite that the restaurant was to close soon. An agreement to return the following evening let me beg off with a light snack. Both evenings I felt like a special, honored guest. I remembered past Caribbean nights and why I love this part of the world: an impromptu celebration in a tiny eatery in St. Thomas 20 years ago where Elizabeth, the owner, was celebrating the birth of her first grandchild. There was Marguerite who left sandwiches in our St. Lucia cottage to welcome us at 1 or 2 in the morning after an hour-long taxi ride over dirt roads from the airport. I remembered the young woman in Jamaica we hired as a day guide who later invited us for dinner at the construction site that was to be her home someday. That night in Punta Cana I remembered why this part of the world is special. The people of the Dominican Republic have that warm, open hospitality that seems a natural extension of their lush surroundings. Life is full of beauty, of movement, of fun, so let's dance the merengue and smile.

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