Arrival: A number of airlines fly to Lisbon, including Continental, American and United, as well as the national Sirline TAP-Air Portugal. American usually connects though Madrid, while Continental and United have direct flights from Newark. Once there it is easy to get a taxi.

Monastery in historic Belem

Money Matters: Gone is the escudo -- Portugal is now on the euro. Banks and currency exchanges are readily available, as are ATM machines.

Getting Around: An excellent and inexpensive train and bus network makes renting a car unnecessary unless extensive exploration of rural areas is planned. Lisbon also has a brand new metro system, although no visitor should miss riding the old trolleys. Multiple day passes make the public transportation system even more reasonable.

Climate: Generally moderate year-round, Portugal does have a rainy winter. Late summer and early fall can be quite warm during the day with cooler temperatures after sunset.

Shopping: Most stores are open from 9 or 10 a.m. to 1 or 2 p.m. and reopen after 3 p.m. until around 7 p.m. Saturday hours are usually 9:00 a.m. till 1:00 p.m. Look for beautiful glazed tiles (azulejos), embroidered linens and lace, porcelain and pottery, and leather goods.

Entertainment: Try to catch a performance of fado or soulful Portuguese ballads sung to the accompaniment of a 12-string guitar. Bars featuring fado singers are common in the Barrio Alto district, with some more touristy than others. Some stamina is required as the best usually start after midnight or 1:00 a.m.

Also, remember that the Portuguese bull-fight is unlike its Spanish cousin in that the bull is not killed. There is a much more festive air to the sport and obviously no bloody slaughter to worry about.


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