Chile is not yet spoiled, not yet polluted, not yet outrageously expensive, and not yet discovered by its neighbors to the far north. It will be.

	Wouldn't it be wonderful to have an idyllic retreat, far removed from any major tourist site, surrounded by spectacular scenery and charming small towns? Better yet, it would be a spa-type retreat offering every possible amenity to pamper the body and soul. Until recently I always assumed such a place existed only in my dreams only, dreams which included massive amounts of disposable money. Then I discovered the Lake District of Chile, and some wonderful Chileans who uncovered hidden gems in the area.
	According to the locals, this central region contains approximately 8,000 or so lakes. Like most visitors I began in Puerto Varas on Lake Llanquihue, a charming town with small hotels and B & Bs, good restaurants, excellent handicraft markets, beautiful scenery, friendly people, and a couple of delightful and helpful tour promoters. Juan Leyton of Turismo Nieve promised an excursion to surpass expectations, and the next day knowledgeable Luis Canales and Chile's best driver, Jaime, proved him right. They did so despite missing the championship soccer game, assuring Chile's place in world competition. At least we did return to Puerto Varas in time for the exuberant post-game celebrations.
	Few Americans venture here, but those that do will find little gems everywhere. The entire Lake District has 12 main lakes, plus rivers and volcanic mountains separating Chile from Argentina. There is quaint German Frutillar on Lake Llanquihue, known for its gingerbread homes and delicious kuchen, and further north Puerto Octay with beautiful views from the surrounding hills. But everywhere you look there is Mt. Osorno, with its perfect cone dominating the blue sky over Lake District towns, much as Mt. Rainier does Seattle on a clear day. Often called South America's Mt. Fuji, it is a skiing paradise waiting to be discovered.
	The crowning jewel in all this has to be Termas de Puyehue, at the eastern end of Lake Puyehue. The capable and efficient management of Francisco del Escoval and Gerardo Ebert manage a tired and overworked Northamerican's dream: a beautiful, wood-beamed lodge built over natural thermal hot springs, surrounded by acres of lush country and snow-capped mountains. You can enjoy the thermal water in either an outdoor or indoor pool, or relax in the spacious reception areas with tall ceilings, huge glass windows, and tiled fireplaces. This splendid lodge is built of local hardwood and has 80 guest rooms with balconies and views of the lake and mountains, intimate lounges and bars, and 13 meeting rooms with the most comfortable plush chairs I have ever used. There is a completely supervised and well-equipped children's room where even the bathrooms are appropriately sized, and the wall paper is done up in a playful design. There is even a little museum of the lodge's history!
	Eating in the beautiful windowed dining room that overlooks the lake, I enjoyed a spectacular selection and variety of foods. Sipping the lodge's own private label wine, I decided this must be what heaven is like, seriously considering selling my return ticket to Cleveland. Maybe I could stay to study the purported healing properties of the delicious tasting natural waters, of which I had only had one glass.
	The Chileans know this place is special, and the lodge is often fully booked for special events or a convention. I would love to return for one of the special celebrations as the September Independence Day festival celebrated in traditional style or the medieval festival complete with period costumes and activities in November.
	Or I might return and stay in nearby Cabañas Nilque, with bungalows built on stilts over the lake, with balconies for sunset viewing, living rooms with fireplaces for cool nights, and even a glass window in the floor to watch fish swimming over the rocks.
	I never thought Chile would captivate me like this, and now I am anxious to return. There is so much to experience, to learn, about this magical country, and wonderful people to know. It is impossible to describe everything that Chile is. It is easier to describe what Chile is not. It is not yet spoiled, not yet polluted, not yet outrageously expensive, and not yet discovered by its neighbors to the far north. It will be.
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